In figuring out what that would look like, I kept coming back to this idea of good taste and the ways we cultivate it. Through what we read, what we buy, what we do, and the people we surround ourselves with, who inspire us to better discover what our own taste really looks and feels like.

Since then, our team has released a handful of pieces I’m really proud of — an interview with New York City’s most talked-about proprietor, George McNally; an insider’s guide to the art of the walk-in (yes, it is an art, and yes, we need to keep it going); a spotlight on summer’s buzziest branzino pop-up; and a personal piece on what it was like growing up inside one of the city’s most iconic French bistros. As a longtime restaurant owner and storyteller, I’m curious about how and why things leave an impression on us. And those are the types of stories we’re always going to tell here.

To grow what we’re doing and invest only in the best, most of our content will be behind a paywall starting next week. Free subscribers will still have access to 1 post a month; paid subscriptions ($125/year or $15/month) will include:

• 4-5 stories a month, including exclusive interviews, curated guides from food’s all-time greats, + expert recommendations for cooking, shopping, and more

• Our full story archive (which includes legacy content like Jean-Georges’ personal recipes and convos with OTH friends Nobu Matsuhisa + Graydon Carter)

• Invites to subscriber-only events such as tastings, talks, and dinner previews

• Exclusive discounts (that you can’t find anywhere else) and giveaways

• Commenting + chat privileges — for good convo AND crowdsourcing

For $750/year, our OTH Regulars tier will include ALL paid perks, plus:

• Guaranteed spots at 1-2 OTH subscriber-only events (your +1 is welcome, too)

• One gifted piece of limited-run merch

• Exclusive in-restaurant perks (think: a round of drinks, early res access, + more)

• Private 1:1 recommendations (email or DM us + we’ll help 🫡)
  

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Lastly: With over 900K(!) of you here, we’d be grateful if you took our brief reader survey ⬇️ to let us know what you’re loving (and what you’d like to see more/less of on OTH). Your insight and thoughts are crucial in making this publication one you really value and enjoy. As a token of our appreciation, we’ll be randomly selecting two survey participants to receive a free annual subscription for the first year.

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Thank you for supporting OTH and our small-but-mighty team on this journey. —John

PLUS: Newsy Things This Week:

• Justice for Cabernet Sauvignon.

• New York’s newest, most talked-about bread is a $60 loaf of rye.

• Did you know there’s a Dinnerware Museum Upstate?

• After a recent trip to Paris, Ruth Reichl wonders if fine dining is a dying art.

• The Astor, the new restaurant inside the Public Theater, opens today.

What We’re Buying This Week:

1. Ghia Le Fizz is finally back in stock after SIX sold-out months. It’s big (750ml) and bubbly (AKA made for celebrating).

2. Rachel Comey and Unreal collaborated on the Coco bag, a limited-run crinkly silver clutch inspired by a chocolate wrapper.

3. The coffee grinder to end all coffee grinders (seriously, it’s sold out in nearly every colorway).

4. Colours of Arley café curtains, for bringing an extra analog touch to your home kitchen or dining room.

5. We’re not ones to speak in absolutes, but this black pepper is best of the best. (We enjoyed this interview with the founders, too.)

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Newsy Things This Week:

1. Big Easy, Meet Big Apple — New Orleans’ iconic Jewel of the South — one of the world’s 50 best bars — is popping up at Gramercy Tavern on September 9 (exclusively for Chase cardholders) and September 10 (open to the public) as part of its new Behind the Bar series. We’re surprised there’s a few last-minute seats available (but don’t expect them to last long).

2. Light + Space — Have you ever considered installing James Turrell-style light effects in your kitchen? We’re inspired by this design ⬇️ of The Dao Tea House in Ho Chi Minh City.

3. Seeing Stars — Danielle Newbold, creator of Table for Two on Substack, talked to a former Michelin inspector about distinguishing a 2- vs. 3-star spot and his single best restaurant recommendation (hint: it’s in NYC).

4. The Hot Seat — Been eyeing those rose-colored slipper chairs at the Fifth Avenue Hotel? Us too. Designer Martin Brudnizki of And Objects shared their origins with T magazine’s Tom Delavan. They have the ideal proportions for cozying up with a book + a cocktail. (PS: Last week, the Fifth Avenue Hotel was named the 78th best property in the world.)

5. Critics’ Picks — In the past week, The New York Times and New York mag both wrote about Somssi, the new Greenwich Village spot from the owners of Atomix, and the reviews range from good to outstanding. If you’ve been, let us know what you thought in the comments.
   

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What We’re Buying This Week:

1. Timed to the release of Tony, A24 has introduced a coffee table book on Anthony Bourdain’s Provincetown years.

2. A round deep oven in Le Creuset’s latest shade, Onyx, because soup/stew season is right around the corner (and if you need inspo, this Alison Roman recipe is an oldie/goodie).

3. Pouches covered in artwork by Ruth Asawa, from Baggu’s new collaboration with MoMA. Yes to good-looking organization.

4. MADRE woven napkins in Butter, AKA a mini fall refresher for your linen drawer.

5. The Beast’s new-ish stainless steel blender, which has a plastic-free interior and keeps drinks/smoothies/etc. cold for hours.

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Augusta Hoffman may be Dallas-born, but she’s spent enough years in New York that the city seems to find its way into every design. Smaller footprints, multi-purpose needs ("When designing a city apartment, you must accomplish a lot in a little space," she told Frederic magazine), gray/concrete views. She embraces these very essential quirks in all her projects, from a family brownstone in Carroll Gardens to the Danielle Frankel bridal salon in the Garment District. The resulting spaces feel special, lived-in, and inherited…even when they are completely new.

In 2019, after training at Parsons and working for AREA Interior Design, she launched her own namesake firm — one that crafts homes built for living as much as they are for entertaining. A consummate host, she considers how creativity can blend with tradition; she says it’s incredibly “important that gatherings reflect the space they take place in.” And all of that hosting starts in the same place.

For Hoffman, the kitchen anchors so much meaning in a home. She went to culinary school in her early 20s; she got engaged in the kitchen of her East Village apartment; she even launched a lemon verbena tea with Forgrave based on her own after-dinner ritual. (That passion shows up in her work, too: she’s created a camera-ready space for Today contributor Joy Bauer and even designed an entire apartment around a client’s love of eating ice cream in bed.)

Turns out someone who knows how to design a dream kitchen can also spot a good one out in the wild. That’s why she’s our latest Taste Maker.

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Tell us your favorite food memory: “I grew up in Texas, so Mexican food is woven into nearly all of my childhood memories. Nothing felt more special than homemade enchiladas on Christmas Eve. My mom moved to Santa Fe about 10 years ago. Now we order “enchiladas Christmas,” smothered in both red and green chile, and silver coin margaritas from The Shed. We sit by the fire, surrounded by ristras and turquoise, while the snow falls outside.”

How about your go-to dinner party essential: “The people around the table. I have never once remembered a centerpiece more than I have remembered who made everyone laugh. I also always have some sort of entertainment — an adult version of a balloon twister, if you will. A game, a custom party popper complete with candy and paper crowns, fortune-telling fish…even the most elegant dinner parties need one element of playfulness. HOUSE & PARTIES is usually my first stop.”

Your hero condiment: “Chick-fil-A BBQ sauce.”

A New York City restaurant with the best interiors: “The Grill for nostalgia, Le Coucou for romance, and Thai Diner for a bit of kitsch.”

One dish you’ll always order if it’s on the menu: “There must be French fries on the table. And if a spot is known for escargot, that is my must-have.”

Share one New York food ritual that’s completely yours: “My husband, daughter, and I love to go to Il Cantinori on Sunday evenings right when they open for dinner service. It is just us and the very old school regulars. It is our happy place.”

The most New York restaurant you’ve ever been to: “Prune in the East Village (RIP). It was tiny, a little chaotic, deeply confident, and completely uninterested in trends. New York at its best has never tried too hard.”

How do you define taste? “Taste is knowing what to leave out. The most beautiful rooms, restaurants, and meals all have restraint. Confidence doesn’t need another layer.”

What’s something you genuinely think is perfect? “The first ice-cold martini on a Friday evening after work.”

Tell us about something you loved before everyone else: “Speaking of martinis…I love a lemon drop. People are finally catching on.”

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