**Welcome back to Table Notes, our seasonal clutch of everything we’re reading, shopping, eating, and (generally) very into right now.
Before we get into our list, John spoke to legendary longtime New York Times food writer + critic Florence Fabricant about her hotly anticipated memoir, which charts her 50+ years of eating at/reviewing the world’s best (and sometimes not-so-best) restaurants. It’s smart, juicy, and a must-read…
OTH: You’ve been at The New York Times through several restaurant critics. While we’re sure you respect and appreciate all of them, is there one whose style you particularly love?
FF: “Craig Claiborne is the one who set The Times’ approach to restaurant reviewing, established the standards, and wrote both generously—and astutely—bringing culinary background and excellent taste to the job.”
OTH: Are there one or two meals that truly stand out, for either good or bad reasons, that you’re willing to share?
FF: “I can still mentally savor many: The 50 courses at El Bulli that were clever and informed; the royally stewed hare at Au Plaisir Gourmand in Chinon; a foraged dinner at Wolfgat in South Africa; and my first fried calamari in Piraeus.
“There were disasters, too: Terrible service at L’Ambroisie in Paris; a brunch at the home of Booker Noe (RIP) in Bardstown, KY—he was the baron of bourbon (Booker’s, Jim Beam) and served classic fare, including bourbon, country ham, biscuits, fried chicken, and pie at 11 a.m. Everything was achingly sweet, but I did my best.”
OTH: Has technology made dining better or worse? Between getting a reservation, ordering via QR codes, and everyone having their phone at the table, what would you keep and what would you get rid of?
FF: “Technology has certainly made cooking better in many ways. As for dining, it hasn’t intruded too much, unless we’re talking about reservation platforms, which I have a love-hate relationship with. QR codes in place of menus must go, but those wireless little lamps instead of candles are lovely. In the fast-casual world, automation is fine; the kiosks, etc., are efficient and speed things up. And phones at the table? It depends on the context.”
OTH: If you could bring back one closed New York restaurant for one night, which would it be, and what would you order?
FF: “The original Four Seasons; the Dover sole or the duck or maybe soft shell crabs in season, with a soufflé for dessert—hold the cotton candy.”
OTH: What’s a food opinion you have that would surprise people—or start a good argument at dinner?
FF: “I try to avoid Atlantic salmon. People should not eat raw mushrooms (I learned the hard way). And I strongly believe baked goods should be made with whole-grain flour instead of white.”
1. After six (!!) months, our most-favorite white wine glasses are finally back in stock.
Made in Germany, $99 for four, and dishwasher-SAFE. Hop to it!
2. Late-LATE-night eats?
Bloomberg reports diners are eating later than ever, leading restaurants to extend hours (Veselka recently revived its 24/7 service) and offer late-night/early morning menus. And it’s backed by data: OpenTable saw a 15% YoY increase in seated diners between 9 and 10 p.m.
3. Colman Domingo ❤️ Julia Child
Guests at the Valentino SS27 show were asked to bring along a book of their choice to be donated to local libraries. The actor selected one of our super faves Mastering the Art of French Cooking, which he shared in a video with Vogue.
4. A chef shirt that’s 😙🤌.
5. Objects of desire.
Christene recently came across JUSSU, a new-ish vintage shop founded by stylist Jesse Lee. Her collection is astonishing and full of rare tabletop gems/collectibles, including cone-shaped Bodum egg cups and candy cocktail stirrers. Definitely add this one to your future holiday shopping tabs.
6. Falling in love on The People’s Yacht.
The NYC Ferry partnered with Zelle on free rides every Thursday through the end of the month (on specific routes). Each route is accompanied by a date night guide to local spots for eating/hanging nearby. Fall food crawl, anyone??
7. Victoria Beckham + Yorkshire pudding.
Ahead of her new home entertaining collection with Westwing, Beckham shared her hosting essentials with The Sunday Times. They include: Ella Fitzgerald music, Cire Trudon candles, and lots of Yorkshire puddings (this recipe is the BEST).
8. Stainless steel that can go in the microwave (you won’t blow up your apartment, promise!).
There’s a lot to love about Misen’s upcoming food storage sets. They’re non-toxic (zero microplastics), everything-safe (IE: dishwasher, oven, grill, freezer, AND microwave), and come in stackable sizes (and with universal lids). Plus, they’re 15% off pre-orders with code NEW15.
9. Atlantic bluefin tuna bypasses extinction.
For HTSI, chef/writer Joseph Ogilvy charts the fish’s journey from near-extinction to new delicacy at restaurants across Britain. Because of government regulations, a 100kg fish costs £2,000—meaning any time it’s on a menu, it’s a must-order. He highlights spots in London serving Atlantic bluefin tuna, including Oma, where David Carter has given the “wagyu of the sea” its own section on the menu (think: raw toro with soy + sesame and tuna loin carpaccio with ladolemono + jalapeño), to Bocca di Lupo, where it takes three people to carry the fish down a flight of kitchen stairs.
10. Cozy London vibes have arrived.
If you’ve been to any of the city’s neighborhood hot spots—Brawn, Jolene, Rochelle Canteen—you know they each have a certain “look” (IE: understated but cozy). Recently, we’ve noticed a handful of New York restaurants—148 Noble Street, F&F—capture that same East London spirit. Do you see it?
11. A Japanese-inspired cutting board we want BAD (and won’t smell like shallots).
Handcrafted using yakisugi, a centuries-old wood preservation technique, making it durable and stain-resistant. It looks great, too.
12. Book a train just for the oysters.
We were recently reminded there’s an oyster takeout window right in Grand Central Station. (Btw, J. Lee, Feed Me’s critic-at-large, shared his Grand Central Oyster Bar off-menu ordering tip last week, too ⬇️.)
13. A very tartan takeover.
Barbour’s partnership with Dean’s ends tomorrow, October 14, which means you still have time to enjoy a stargazy pie and a Guinness from a custom plaid booth (and grab a limited-edition co-branded T-shirt. We love merch).
14. Jazz over gin.
Everyone talks about whether or not Gen Z drinks alcohol, but no one talks about how they’re hanging at jazz clubs.
15. Be happy, wear vegetables.
Show your stem-veg support at the Union Square Farmers Market!
16. Small plates are OUT, leftovers are IN.
Luke Fortney’s latest edition of Where to Eat: New York City, The New York Times’ bi-weekly newsletter for restaurant recs, takes on shared bites (which typically have us spending more—and leaving hungrier). His alternative: dapanji (or “big tray chicken”) in Chinatown, an Uzbek plov in Queens, and more big plate spots. We’re always down for meals that come with leftovers.
17. Parting giggle.
Snapped in the bathroom of Reveler’s Hour in DC last weekend by Erin.
Wishing you all a great week. —Team OTH
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